Every God-given day we’d perch up on the counter to read the Centre Presse newspaper or look through the superb collection of reels, spoons and artificial flies, before tossing a coin to the owner of this village café frozen in time that’s also a tobacconist, newsagents, hotel and restaurant. As the worthy heirs of a five-generation lineage, it’s now Lucille (in the dining room) and Jocelyn (in the kitchen) who carry on the family tradition. The night we went: a pleasant vegetable velouté served in a soup tureen with, just as ad-lib as ever, croutons, grated Gruyère cheese and a turmeric-spiced whipped cream; juicy pink veal loin with melted herb butter and aligot; before a quivering goat cheese faisselle with homemade seasonal fruit jam. For a little more verve, go towards the end of the week or for the Sunday feast, where you might come across mullet ceviche, veal sweetbreads in a cream sauce, slow-roasted goat shoulder or a pavlova with lemon cream and strawberries, amongst other delicious treats. // G.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? A Marcillac from the Domaine du Cros (€3.50 a glass), a Faugères La Liquière, a sulfite-free ZigZag Côtes-Auvergne from Desprat and a Sancerre white from Fouassier (€22, €20 and €30 a bottle).
PRICE: Set menus €17-22 (lunch), €15-19 (dinner) and €20-28 (Sunday). Rooms starting at €70 a night.