restaurant

Carmelo

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An 800 m2 space, Technicolor décor with walls covered in a myriad of plates, bottles of Italian wine or sepia-toned photographs (depending on the room)… After opening locations in Paris, Lille and London, the Big Mamma group arrived in Lyon with their excessively kitsch tastes in tow. Expect the same fare that you’d find in the motherhouse, as star dishes parade out of the kitchen to the delight of the grammers: an XXL carpaccio served on a platter, carbonara tossed in a wheel of Parmesan, lemon tart with a frighteningly tall meringue topping… For us, the night we went for dinner: plump smoked straciatella; calorie-rich fried lasagna with an excellent Tuscan fennel pork ragù; fresh corzetti (Ligurian medallion-shaped pasta) with basil pesto and burrata; two original pizzas – the Tom Tom & Reginana with oyster mushrooms, herbed ham & a cacio e pepe cream, and the (not so) Hot Stuff with spicy ’nduja and jalapeños; before a hearty serving of good, old-fashioned tiramisu. // A.S.

FEELING THIRSTY? A dozen cocktails, including the eponymous Big Mamma (vodka, lime cordial, ginger ale and fruit, €10), plus a few Italian wines: a Trebbiana white from Emilie-Romagne Camauro (€5 a glass), a Nero-d’Avola Cappanera (€6), I Masieri, a Venetian white from Angiolino Maule (€48 a bottle) or Tenuta delle Terre Nuove, an Etna rosso (€59).

PRICE: Antipasti €4 to €12, mains €13 to €18, pizzas €12 to €18, desserts €6.50 to €8.

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